Electric heaters are the familiar choice in many homes, but where a house already has natural gas or propane, a gas tank is a familiar sight in the garage or utility closet. When one stops working, the cause is usually one of a short list of parts, and knowing the list makes the phone call faster.
How a gas water heater works
Cold water enters the tank and a gas burner under it heats the water. A gas control valve on the front decides when the burner fires, using a temperature sensor inside the tank. A small pilot flame, or an electronic igniter on newer models, lights the burner when the valve calls for heat.
The exhaust leaves through a flue, a vent pipe running up and out of the house. That path matters as much as the flame, because combustion gases have to leave the home. The tank also carries a temperature and pressure relief valve, the same safety valve found on electric units.
Pilot light keeps going out: pilot, thermocouple and burner problems
These are the parts behind most gas heater calls, described here so you know what the tech is looking at.
- Pilot. A pilot that goes out repeatedly can point to a draft, a dirty pilot assembly or a part that is failing.
- Thermocouple. A small sensor that sits in the pilot flame and tells the gas valve the flame is lit. When it wears out, the valve shuts the gas off, which is a common reason for thermocouple problems and a pilot that will not stay on.
- Gas control valve. The part that meters gas to the burner. If it fails, the heater may not fire at all, or may not shut off properly.
- Burner. Dust, rust or debris can clog the burner and give a weak or uneven flame, which means less hot water.
Please don’t try relighting the pilot or opening any panels yourself. Flame and gas are the technician’s work.
Pilot out again? Describe what it is doing and hear what is likely.
Ask about your gas unitVenting and draft: why they matter
A gas heater needs air to burn and a clear path for the exhaust. In a standard atmospheric-vent tank, hot exhaust rises naturally through the flue, which is called draft. If the flue is blocked, cracked or poorly sloped, or the room is starved of air, the exhaust may not leave the way it should.
This is why the tech checks the vent whenever they work on a gas unit, and why a new heater needs a vent that suits it. It is a routine part of the job and nothing to be alarmed about, but it is also why this is not DIY territory.
Power-vent and direct-vent gas water heaters
Not every gas heater relies on natural draft. A power-vent model uses a fan to push exhaust out, often through a plastic pipe, which gives more freedom in where the heater can sit. A direct-vent model pulls its combustion air from outside through a sealed pipe and sends exhaust out another, so it does not use the room’s air.
Both need power for the fan or controls, and both tend to be more involved to install than a standard tank. If you are moving a gas heater, or replacing one in a tight closet, the pro will explain whether one of these suits the space.
Repairing vs replacing a gas unit, and gas water heater replacement
Thermocouples, igniters, gas valves and burners are parts, and a bad one on a sound tank is often worth repairing. A tank that is leaking, or badly corroded or scaled inside, is a different case.
For a gas water heater replacement, the pro checks the gas line, the vent and the space before recommending a unit, and explains the price upfront. If you are weighing a switch, our page on an electric water heater covers that side. For fitting details, see water heater installation, and for care of an existing tank, water heater maintenance.
Gas water heater safety, in plain terms
Once everyone is safely outside and the right people have been called, a technician can look at the heater.
